The Irish Naturalist

By Owen Beckett

Tag: butterflies

Andalusian Anomalous Blue, Sierra de Almijara, Spain, July 2020

Hidden Treasures of the Sierra de Almijara, Part 2: July 2020

July 30, 2020 /

Aside from the section of the Sierra de Almijara around Nerja, there were two other areas of these mountains that I travelled to whilst I was in the region: Frigiliana and Canillas de Abaida. These two attractive white-washed hilltop towns offered something slightly different than the hills around Nerja and I was keen to get out and explore them.

The day during which I was looking for wildlife near Frigiliana was brief and admittedly I spent much of my time exploring the quaint white-washed streets. I did manage to take a short walk into the adjacent hills where I found a number of interesting butterfly species. Top of the list was the magnificent Two-tailed  Pasha. This stunning butterfly is the only representative of the Charaxes genus in Europe and I was treated to the sighting of three individuals, hilltoping in an open clearing. ‘Hiltopping’ is the name for the habit that certain butterflies have of flying to the tops of hills and often finding a prominent perch and driving off any other butterflies that happen to fly past. I like to think of it as the butterfly equivalent of playing ‘king of the castle’.

Other species I found were the ever-present Wall Brown, Small Copper and Dusky Heath, but a surprise for me was the Large Wall Brown. Unlike the regular Wall Brown this species is generally harder to find, particularly in southern Spain and is limited to rockier areas in the hills. I found it feeding on some Mediterranean Thyme but only managed a few photos as it was rather wary, although it never flew far when disturbed.

The other area I explored was a higher-altitude site near the village of Canillas de Anaida. After the windy road up to the village, a narrow lane led me to the little recreation area of Fabrica de la Luz, or ‘Factory of the Light’. I arrived here quite early in the morning and the sun had not yet risen sufficiently to bring out many butterflies, so I began my walk up into the mountains. After about 45 minutes of walking things were starting to warm up and I saw my first Dusky Heaths and Wall Browns of the day, species which seem to be common in these mountains. After around 15 minutes or so I made it to a prominent ridge where the sun was shining fully, so there were many more species in flight here. A Small Copper was feeding on Field Eryngo, which was by far the most popular nectar plant in this area. Also joining it was a Southern Gatekeeper, which was surprisingly sparse during my time here.

The pathway zig-zagged its way up a hill between pine woodland and dry open clearings. In such clearings the insect diversity was impressive, with a range of butterflies, bugs, beetles, wasps and bees all being seen. One particular bug which caught my attention was an Assassin Bug, Rhynocoris cuspidatus. These bugs lie in wait on flowers and pounce on any visiting insects. Other insects here included the attractive Longhorn Beetle, Chlorophorus trifasciatus and a species of leafcutter bee, Megachile sp. which I think was Megachile rotundata.

As I continued up the hill I was treated to a nice variety of butterflies. Tree Graylings, Wall Brown and more Dusky Heaths were present in the wooded areas whilst in the open areas species like the Small Copper, Long-tailed Blue and Bath White were seen, attracted in particular to Field Eryngo, Curryplant and various thistles.

Another new butterfly for me was the Spanish Gatekeeper. I was pleased to find this species as it was a new one for me and very much a target for the trip. I managed to get a shot as it basked in some dappled shade in one of the patches of woodland. A few Iberian Marbled Whites were also in flight further along this path, which were a nice surprise and one species I had not seen since doing the Camino in northern Spain. The Mountain Argus, a species I had seen for the first time the previous year in the French Pyrenees was also seen in this general area as were both the Blue-spot and False Ilex Hairstreaks, the latter being a new species and one which I had again been very much hoping to find on my trip.

After about two-and-a-half hours of walking I reached a particular clearing where I found one of the most special of all Spanish butterflies; the Andalusian Anomalous Blue. Although not the most striking species this butterfly is a real rarity even within Spain, being classed as vulnerable, endemic to Spain and confined to just a few mountains in the south of the country. I was delighted when I came across a fresh male feeding once again on Field Eryngo.

I spent some time photographing and enjoying watching this lovely butterfly before I decided to head back down. It was not long after I began my descent that a larger orange butterfly caught my eye. I immediately thought fritillary, but which one? As I approached carefully I was able to recognise it as a Niobe Fritillary, a nice bonus! There aren’t many fritillaries that fly during July in this part of Spain and this species in particular is limited to mountainous areas here. After getting some shots of it feeding on thistles I happened across the humble Sage Skipper. Although not many were seen on this particular walk, overall it was the commonest skipper in the area during my visit.

Continuing back through one of the patches of woodland, I caught sight of a rather drab-brown medium-sized butterfly. It landed once or twice on the dry ground and exposed rock where it blended in rather well and as I was photographing it, I was thinking to myself that it was just a local variation of the Meadow Brown. It was only afterwards whilst I was sorting through my photos that I realised that I had in fact been looking at its scarcer continental relative, the Dusky Meadow Brown. This was a surprise find and which I really didn’t expect to see, so once again I was delighted and couldn’t believe my luck!

I stopped every-so-often to take a look at some of the butterflies that were flying around the path; Bath White, Small Copper, Iberian Marbled White and Dusky Heath were all seen in relative abundance and whilst I was really in my element just watching them all, I didn’t want to keep my mum (who had kindly accompanied me on this trip) waiting for too much longer back at the recreational area as there was only so much sketching she could do! I did have to stop at one stage however and photograph a pristine Clouded Yellow. This species can be common over much of southern and central Europe during the summer and in my experience it had always been difficult to photograph, so I was glad to finally get close enough to get some nice photos of one nectaring happily on one of the several varieties of thistle that grew in the open areas.

After a brisk walk down the mountain I eventually reached the lush floor of the valley where the butterfly activity was much greater than when I had walked along here earlier that morning. Small Whites, Southern Blues and Holly Blues were mudpuddling here as well as flitting around the clumps of bramble that lined the riverbanks. The beautiful ford near the buildings at the recreational area was lined with pink Oleander blossoms and the crystal clear water made this area utterly blissful. A few more species of butterfly were seen here, mostly fixated on obtaining salts from the damp earth. Holly Blues were common as were Long-tailed and Lang’s Short-tailed Blues. A few Southern Marbled Skippers and Clouded Yellows also made an appearance before an Iberian Scarce Swallowtail came swooping by. Unfortunately it didn’t land so it evaded my camera, but it was another nice species to see at this lovely site.

Overall I had a fantastic trip to this lovely region of Spain and was chuffed with my findings. I would definitely recommend it for butterfly lovers but there is plenty for anyone with an interest in wildlife, and indeed anyone who enjoys warm weather, picturesque scenery, good food and quaint villages. I hope I can return someday to sample some of the riches during the spring or visit some of the higher mountains like the Sierra Nevada. Until then, a glass of Tinto de Verano and looking back through my photos will help me savour the memories!

 

Hidden treasures of the Sierra de Almijara, Part 1: July 2020

July 27, 2020 /

The Sierra de Almijara is one of Spain’s lesser-known mountain ranges located in the provinces of Malaga and Granada in the south of the country. In contrast to mountains like the Pyrenees or the Sierra Nevada, this range receives far fewer visitors each year and consequently it is a true wilderness with much unspoiled landscape.

The underlying geology of the area is calcareous marble with many steep valleys and sharp ridges whilst the climate is variable depending on the altitude, but generally winters are mild and wet whilst summers are hot with virtually no rainfall. The lime-rich soil and warm conditions create a wonderful habitat for many species of flowering plant. These in turn attract a myriad of insects quite unlike what I would be used to in Ireland, with many commoner continental and  Mediterranean butterflies  together with a few rarer species, a large range of bees and wasps, bugs, dragonflies, grasshoppers and many other insects. The area is also home to the locally scarce Cabras Montes, or Spanish Ibex which is an endemic species of wild mountain goat. Other animals include the Betic Midwife Toad (an endemic frog species), Common Genet, Wild Boar and Jewelled Lizard, whilst birds of the area include the Bonelli’s Eagle, Griffon Vulture and Golden Oriole. On my first day in the area I took a hike into the mountains starting in the town of Nerja to see what they had to offer.

The track I took led through woodland consisting primarily of Aleppo Pine and small clearings where plants like Anthyllis tejedensis and Mediterranean Thyme (the former is a particularly rare and attractive little flower with pale furry leaves, restricted to these mountains). The sun soon rose over the rocky ridge to the east which brought out the first butterflies of the day. By far the commonest species was the Dusky Heath, a species which is restricted to south-western Europe but can be common where found. Indeed, it was the most abundant butterfly at all of the locations that I visited in these mountains. Another species which I encountered frequently was the Striped Grayling, again restricted to the southwest of Europe:

Further along the trail, more butterflies started to appear such as the familiar Wall Brown, the diminutive Lulworth Skipper and a fresh male Southern Blue. The Wall Brown is a butterfly I had seen several times before but always in ones and twos, whereas here it was rather abundant. It was nice to see a species which is now so scarce back home doing so well here. On the other hand the Lulworth Skipper I saw was the only individual of the trip and a species that I had not seen before, so I was glad to get a few photos of this widespread European skipper.

During the hot summer months many of the plants here have finished flowering but there were still a few on display, such as Delphinium gracile, Dianthus broteri and the Spurge Olive (an inedible wild berry more closely related to oranges than olives). I also found the Western Prickly Juniper, a spiny shrub found in southwest Europe used to make Cade Oil, a type of incense.

The next area was more open with less shade which eventually led downhill towards a dry riverbed. It was here that I found two more species of skipper; the Red-underwing Skipper and the Southern Marbled Skipper. The first of these was one which I had seen previously in southern Portugal but the Southern Marbled Skipper was completely new for me. It is the rarer of the two, being confined mostly to Spain but with a few scattered populations in southern France and Italy too. It can be differentiated from similar species by its whitish underside veins and prominent white markings on the upperside.

Walking up from the dry riverbed took me towards an area of open scrub and maquis where I found some interesting insects. The Semipunctated Shieldbug was found on certain Fennel plants here, whilst a species of Mylabris beetle and the Antlion Myrmecaelurus trigrammus were also found here. Bees of the area included the large and impressive Xylocopa cantabrita (a type of carpenter bee) as well as an attractive little black and white Thyreus bee. Interestingly, there a large and robust fly feeding on the Mediterranean Thyme just like Xylocopa cantabrita which mimicked it rather well. This is a common trend in nature, where harmless flies have evolved to resemble species of bees and wasps which have the capacity to sting, thus allowing them to fool would-be predators. Wasps I saw here were similar to those seen at lower altitudes near Maro, such as Stizus ruficornis but in addition I also saw a large species of cutworm wasp, a member of the genus Sphex. Along the path I also stumbled across an Erodius beetle, otherwise known as a Dune Beetle. It was a large and sluggish beetle which I decided to place off the path in case it was trodden on! Further up the hillside again I came across a large dragonfly which I later identifies as a Large Pincertail, another new species for me. 

Close to this area was the Fuente del Esparto, a mountain spring upon which a small stone outlet has been constructed. It was almost strange to hear running water when so much of the surrounding countryside was so warm and dry. Around this area too I encountered one of the highlights of the trip, a mother Spanish Ibex and her young. Unfortunately my camera was kitted out primarily for close-up work on insects and flowers, which combined with their wary nature meant that I couldn’t get too close and the photos are a tad fuzzy, but it was a lovely animal to have seen for even the few seconds that i was treated with.

I ended up climbing up to around 800m, but at this point there was a lot of thick mist and cloud and the previously abundant insects had mostly disappeared for the time being. I decided to make my way down and among some patches of flowers there were still a few butterflies feeding on the Mediterranean Thyme, notably the Blue-spot Hairstreak.  This feisty little butterfly was rather abundant along the majority of the trail, often chasing off other Blue-spots as well as much bigger butterflies like Striped Graylings! Sage Skippers were also present in this area, as was a lone Bath White.

Admittedly there wasn’t a lot that I stopped and photographed on the way down as fatigue was starting to get the better of me, but here are a few final photos of some other plants and insects that I found along the way. In my next post I’ll be documenting my finds in another section of the Sierra de Almijara further inland, which threw up a few local specialities!

Mediterranean Skipper, Nerja, Spain, July 2020

Nerja and Maro: wildlife highlights July 2020

July 23, 2020 /

Nerja and Maro are two towns nestled along the Costa del Sol in Andalusia in southern Spain, an area which sees droves of tourists flock their each year, especially in the summer to avail of the abundant sunshine and pristine beaches. One of the lesser-known facets of the region is its wonderfully rich wildlife. The Sierra Nevada near Granada (some 50 km away) is a popular site for ecotourism, but Nerja and its neighbour still receive little attention by comparison. This July I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to explore the area and see what it had to offer.

Andalusia is one of the hottest regions in Europe and come July much of the land (particularly that which is low-lying or near the coast) can look parched and barren. A closer look however can reveal a community of  plants and insects which are well-adapted to survive the intense summer sunshine. In some of the areas of wasteground and scrub outside the towns plants such as Mediterranean Thyme, Sand Viper’s Bugloss and Arabian Pea can be found:

The Mediterranean Thyme in particular is a popular nectar source for the various insects which inhabit the area, especially butterflies. Typical Mediterranean species such as the European Swallowtail, Long-tailed Blue, Southern Blue, Southern Brown Argus, Small Copper and Bath White were all attracted to the profusion of lilac flowers. The Southern Blue and Southern Brown Argus are Iberian counterparts of the Common Blue and Brown Argus respectively, which occur elsewhere in Europe and it was nice to see both again after finding them in southern Portugal a few years ago.   The Geranium Bronze is another butterfly species which can be readily seen in the area, although more often in parks and gardens. It is a non-native species from South Africa which arrived in Europe in the 1980s via imported Geraniums (its larval foodplant) and is now very much a Mediterranean denizen.

In addition to these commoner species, I was treated to a couple of local specialities; the Monarch,  Mediterranean Skipper and Desert Orange Tip. The former is probably the most famous butterfly in the world, due to its large size and annual migration across North America, when thousands of individuals cross en masse from the north to the south of the continent. In Europe however it is somewhat of a rarity and such migrations are not undertaken, as it is a resident in the south of Spain as well as the Canary Islands. It is another relatively recent coloniser, thanks in part due to the widespread planting of its foodplant, Milkweed in parks and gardens throughout the area over the last few decades. The Mediterranean Skipper on the other hand is native, but quite patchy throughout the Mediterranean region. It is a small nondescript species but a very fast flier, so I was lucky to get a few shots of this rarity before it flew off! The Desert Orange Tip is more of a north African species, but it just manages to creep onto the European continent here in southern Spain. It likes very hot, rocky areas and a managed to find an individual near one of Maro’s beaches, a fine male basking in the sun.

Other than butterflies, the area was also home to several different varieties of dragonfly as well as spiders, wasps and shieldbugs. The Violet Dropwing was the standout dragonfly species, with its rich red and violet colouration it was the most spectacular dragonfly I’ve ever seen. The Keeled Skimmer was also present and whilst not as striking as the previous species its rich blue colour makes it an attractive dragonfly in its own right. Striped Shieldbugs were present on some of the Fennel plants growing in the area, whilst the impressive Violet Carpenter Bee (one of Europe’s largest bees) was seen a few times on the Mediterranean Thyme and Yellow Restharrow.

Although they terrify some people, the wasps and spiders of the area are in reality quite harmless as long as they aren’t pestered and are usually much more interested in flowers or catching other insects than they are in people. The most impressive spider in the region (and the largest in Europe) is the Gibraltar Funnel-web Spider. It is a large, black spider which constructs cylindrical webs deep among the dry vegetation. They are not a particularly common species and consequently are protected in Spain. Another spider of interest was the Napoleon Spider. This species is much smaller but thanks to its striking red and black colouration, it can be spotted easily. The wasps I found in the outskirts of Nerja included the Red-horned Sand Digger, the French Paper Wasp and the formidable Beewolf. The latter is a particularly interesting species, as it creates burrows in areas of sandy soil before catching and paralysing honeybees to deposit in the burrows for its larvae, which develop safely within the burrow and feed on the honeybees. Gruesome, but a fascinating life cycle.

As expected, bird activity was quite low. A few Starlings, Spanish Sparrows and Spotted Flycatchers were seen in the vicinity of where I was staying, likely availing of the abundance of insects around! I also managed to find some kind of hawk or falcon patrolling the area close to the Maro Aqueduct, but I didn’t get close enough views to determine an ID. Reptiles were also present (as they often are in Mediterranean climes), in particular lizards. The Large Psammodromus was the most commonly seen lizard, visible almost everywhere on hot rocky surfaces particularly in the morning. A few Moorish Geckos were also present in our postbox of all places! I also managed to find a frog near one of the irrigation channels beside the Avocado groves nearby, as well as a snake beside the Cuevas de Nerja, but unfortunately I wasn’t able to get a good enough look at either to figure out what species they were. All in all however it was a very rich area in wildlife and I would recommend it to anyone with an interest in nature, particularly insects as there were far more species present in addition to those I have mentioned, and this was only during July. I am certain there would be a whole host of other species here during the spring in particular. Someday I hope to go back here in April or May to witness the fine display of spring flowers and butterflies that Andalusia is known for. In the next post I will document some of my hikes into the nearby Sierra de Almijara, which had a few surprises of their own…

 

Cluj-napoca, Romania, June 2019

July 4, 2019 /
  • After spending nearly two weeks in the remote Apuseni Mountains in the north-west of Transylvania, I ended up spending two days in Cluj-napoca, Romania’s second city. After reading the word ‘city’ you would be forgiven for thinking that that would spell the end of my butterflying for the trip; but to go Cluj in early summer and not look for butterflies would be too good an opportunity to miss.

Cluj lies within walking distance of one of Romania’s top butterfly hotspots; a small wildlife reserve known as Fânațele Clujului which translates loosely as the “Fountains of Cluj”. An odd name considering that there are no fountains or springs! It is a small area with a wide range of habitats such as calcareous grassland, fens, light scrub and species-rich meadows.  I was able to find out that some rare species occurred in this area, including the Tessellated Skipper, Spinose Skipper, Zephyr Blue, Eastern Short-tailed Blue and Lesser Clouded Yellow, as well as 90 or so other species.

On the 2nd of June I set off from my hotel early in the morning to allow myself plenty of time to stop and take photos along the way. The city was very quiet at this time which made my walk all the more pleasant. My first job was to climb up a rather lengthy slope, which was a tough job in the increasingly hot morning sun! Some mist was building up as the slope levelled off and it was at this point that I found my first butterflies. A construction site entrance adjacent to a wonderfully rich meadow was home to dozens of roosting blues and Chestnut Heaths. The blues were mostly Silver-studded Blues, but there were a few Idas, Chapman’s and Osiris Blues in the mix, all of which were new species for me. They were also joined by a Wood White and what I believe was a Nickerl’s Fritillary. The mist had made them a bit groggy, so photography was relatively easy for once!

I spent around half an hour photographing the sleepy blues before continuing along the pathway where the meadow opened up and by this stage the mist had almost vanished. The sward here was short and there were fewer butterflies around, but after I passed some locals picking herbs I walked into a more sheltered scrubby area which was teaming with all sorts of species. In addition to the butterflies I had already seen that morning, I found Common Blues, a Knapweed Fritillary, Glanville Fritillary and a Painted Lady and it wasn’t even 10 o’clock yet!

After another 20 minutes I eventually reached the crest of the hill, offering me a nice view over Cluj. Yellowhammers,  Meadow Pipits, Whitethroats, Blackbirds and other songsters were in full swing which made for a wonderful ambience. Here the landscape was slightly different; with fields of lucerne and other fallow crops growing beside damp boggy patches. Walking along the field margins I caught sight of a small orange butterfly, which I immediately thought was some type of copper. I followed it and it landed nicely for me on some low-growing crops and I was able to identify it as a female Lesser Fiery Copper. I was stoked at finding this species as it is only found in SE Europe and within Romania it is rather scarce.

At a small crossroad I noticed again what was another fairly small orange species, but slightly bigger than the Lesser Fiery Copper. It landed in a patch of long grass next to some Greater Water Dock and just as I spotted my very first Large Copper and was about to photograph it it flew away! Despite searching for a good 15 minutes I couldn’t find it again, which left me a little bit frustrated. My frustration soon left me however when I caught sight of a small dark fritillary, which I believe was an Assmann’s Fritillary, a local eastern European species similar to the Heath Fritillary and one of my targets for the trip.  Continuing along the path towards a hamlet I came across a meadow rich in wildlflowers such as Sainfoin, Clover, Nodding Sage and Ox-eye Daisy which in turn hosted numerous butterfly species. Meadows like this are few and far between in Ireland so I spent plenty of time here just appreciating the shear level of biodiversity in such a small space. In addition to the various blues I’d seen earlier that morning, I caught sight of my first Black-veined White, a Pale/Berger’s Clouded Yellow, a Wall Brown and a small brown Lycaenidae butterfly which I recognised as a Geranium Argus, another fairly scarce species in Romania.

The path led me through a small hamlet where I again saw Silver-studded and Osiris Blues flitting amongst the verges, along with a European Swallowtail. By this stage it was getting rather warm; great for the butterflies but maybe not for the walker! The dirt track led me down past a few more houses and a church, across a river and back up another hill where I could now see the reserve and its distinctive dirt mounds, or ‘Copârsaie’ quite clearly. The area where I entered the reserve was an area of short, dry grassland which was alive with blues, mostly Silver-studded and Idas, as well as Black-veined Whites and a few Green Hairstreaks and Chestnut Heaths. I also noticed a large number of Cockchafer Beetles buzzing around and clambering amongst the rose and hawthorn bushes. The dense scrub made parts of the reserve hard to get to but I was able to find a large gap which led to me towards the northern parts behind the copârsaie where the meadows were much more lush and varied. It was here that I encountered a few skippers which I frantically followed trying to see if and of them  were the elusive Spinose or Tessellated Skippers. Unfortunately I was to come away from the reserve having seen neither, but on a more positive note I identified them as Safflower Skippers and Oberthur’s Grizzled Skipper; both new species for me! I spent a good hour or two exploring the rest of this area where I was able to find another target species, the Eastern Short-tailed Blue. As its name suggests it is an eastern European species and it has a patchy distribution so I was delighted to get some got shots of a nice female. Scrambling through some of the dense scrub I disturbed a Black Hairstreak which just hung around long enough for a photo and a lovely male Osiris Blue.

By this stage it had reached around 3 in the afternoon and I decided to head back, as the walk itself would take several hours. Whilst leaving the reserve I managed to get some photographs of the Black-veined White, which despite me seeing many of them earlier that day this individual was the only one that actually landed for me! The salts and moisture on the stony pathway seemed to entice it to stop for a minute or two at last. The walk back past some Lucerne fields threw up another interesting species, an Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow. This species is similar to the Clouded Yellow but has unmarked dark borders and is slightly paler in colour. This is another scarce eastern species which is much more abundant in parts of Asia but migrates north and westwards each year, and another one I’d been hoping to see!

Further back along the path towards the hill I once again searched without success for the Large Copper. In addition to the other species I had failed to find this made me determined to come back some year and try and find them. After another hour or two of walking I was back at my hotel and discovered on my phone that I had walked over 21km, which explained the sore feet! I spent the following day resting bar one small walk I did at the back of the hotel which extended out across a flat grassy plain  adjacent to the airport. It was a cloudier day with little butterfly activity however I was able to add the Provencal Short-tailed Blue to my list of new species. I initially thought it was just a Holly Blue but it was behaving slightly differently and when I got up close I noticed the distinctive underside and was jubilant that once again, I had found a new species that wasn’t particularly common in this part of Romania! All in all it was a fantastic few days during which I managed to see nearly 40 species including a whole mass of first-timers for me. Add into this the species I had seen in the Apuseni Mts and it makes for an impressive list.

I hope this helps to highlight Transylvania’s fantastic biodiversity as well as the fact that Romania is in fact a premier butterfly destination with a huge wealth of different species. It is somewhere I would love to go back to so here’s hoping I get the chance!

Zadar and Paklenica: July 2018 (Days 1,2 &3)

August 5, 2018 /

Anyone who knows about European butterflies will tell you that the Balkan countries are some of the most species-rich in Europe and Croatia is no exception. The port town of Zadar and the neighbouring Paklenica National Park lie half-way down the Dalmatian coast and offer a mix of Mediterranean, Continental and Alpine ecosystems: perfect for wildlife.

The area around Zadar would fit into the ‘Mediterranean’ category, with mild winters and hot summers and a landscape dominated by maquis scrub. What has enhanced its  wildlife value even more is, oddly enough, the  Serbo-Croatian War. During the early 90s, landmines were laid throughout the country and many remained there for years, allowing the wildlife there to thrive due to the lack of human disturbance. Most of the mines have since been cleared by the Croatian government, but there are plenty of ‘wild’ areas on Zadar’s outskirts that I was able to explore.

I found a track that led from the north of the town through scrub and olive groves to a small pine forest and it was here that I was able to find many different types of wildlife.  In the first few hundred metres of the track, there were numerous butterfly species such as Geranium Bronze, Common Blue, Holly Blue, Brown Argus, Southern Small White and Spotted Fritillary, of which the latter two were new species for me. A few Scarce and Common Swallowtails were around too; both equally large and impressive species that always make me stop and stare in admiration. A solitary Great Sooty Satyr sat amicably for me on the stony path, which was also a nice sight.

Several other unfamiliar butterflies were flying further down the path, one of which was the Oriental Meadow Brown. Similar to the Meadow Brown found in Ireland, this species is found in southern Europe and has scalloped hindwings, making it distinctive. The other was the Orbed Red-underwing Skipper, a small species which flies low and fast but one which eventually settled for me, just! Tree Graylings were quite abundant around the edges of the pine forest, where they often settled on tree trunks and in shady spots, likely trying to avoid the intense midday heat. One of the most exciting species I saw was the Cardinal fritillary, the largest fritillary in Europe. Unfortunately I flushed it up from the forest floor and didn’t have time to get a photograph, as it zoomed away into the dense canopy and didn’t return! Two other new species were also seen along the edge of the woods, which were the Eastern Bath White and the Lang’s Short-tailed Blue.

Aside from the butterflies there were other species, particularly insects, that were common here. Blue-winged grasshoppers along with several other grasshoppers sat on the stony path and only flew off when I was practically on top of them! A few Lily Bush Crickets and what I believe to be Migratory Locusts also were found here. As ever in the Mediterranean, Ash Cicadas were in full song and were so numerous in the pine forest that it was almost deafening. The flock of Pheasant that I encountered didn’t seem to mind though, as they browsed through the undergrowth quite happily.  The most interesting animal I encountered whilst walking was the Hermann’s Tortoise. Being from Ireland, seeing a tortoise plodding across a country lane is something I’m not familiar with but I could very much get used to it.

The area around Zadar was just a small taste of the wildlife that the area had to offer; and the real goal was Paklenica National Park, which I will write about in the next post!

Sheskinmore: June 2018

July 16, 2018 /

Sheskinmore Lough is a nature reserve  in the northwestern corner of Ireland and is hailed as Donegal’s jewel in the crown for wildlife. Three quarters of Ireland’s butterfly species have been recorded here, as well as many moths, dragonflies, bees, birds, plants and mammals.

For me personally the reserve peaks in the months of June and July, when the air is filled with the sweet scent of wildflowers mixed with the cool freshness of the Atlantic, Sand Martins and Swallows hawk for insects over the grassland, the songs of Skylarks and Meadow Pipits surround you whilst the butterfly and bees hop from flower to flower. On a sunny day it is one of my favourite places to be and I always love getting the opportunity to travel there at this time of year.

I usually enter the reserve via Tramore Strand. This is a magnificent Irish surf beach which is great for a swim and produces some impressive waves at times, although there was virtually no wind about today, which was ideal for watching wildlife. Behind the embryo dunes there are numerous patches of Kidney Vetch and Bird’s-foot Trefoil, along with a smattering of Early Purple Orchids and various Marsh Orchids. It is always teeming with butterflies, particularly Small Blues which is always a nice sight. Small Heaths and Common Blues also are common here along with Common Carder and White-tailed Bumblebees.

At the far end of Tramore there is a gate into the reserve itself, where the habitat is mostly coastal heath and calcareous coastal grassland. This section of the reserve is rich with wildflowers and insects in particular. Common Centuary, Meadow Thistle, Scarlet Pimpernel, Wild Thyme and Common Butterwort all occur here. It is no exaggeration to say that every few steps I flushed out a Small Heath from the grass; they were everywhere! As always there were a few Small Coppers and the odd Dingy Skipper which is always nice to see and by mid-June the Common Blues and Six-spot Burnet moths typically start to emerge and there was a handful of both species here too. The coastline of Donegal is one of the few areas where I have seen Moss Carder and Red-shanked Carder Bees. Both of these bumblebees are quite scarce and no doubt the abundance of wildflowers and lack of agricultural activity on the reserve appeals to them.

Further along the path there are several large pools in some of the lower dune troughs which host a nice variety of dragonflies and damselflies. The Four-spotted Chaser is one of the larger species, along with the smaller Large Red Damselfly and Blue Damselfly.  I love sitting by the pools and watching Sand Martins and Swallows skim the surface for a drink as they are such fast, acrobatic birds and a real sign of Spring and Summer.

I generally walk back via Ballinreavy Strand, a wide open beach beside the Owenea and Owentocker estuary to observe some of the wildlife there. Usually there are some Sandwhich terns here along with some Curlews, Ringed Plovers and Oystercatchers, combing the fringes of the water for small invertebrates. Looking into the small tributaries along the beach I saw some small Flounders, which quickly disappeared with a puff of sand when they saw my shadow.

At this time of year I always leave this place on a high and once again it did not disappoint!

 

Galicia: June 2017

July 5, 2018 /

My decision to travel to Galicia was rather last minute as my mum was heading there to do the final 120km of the Camino de Santiago and I left it until 2 weeks before we were due to leave to tell her that I wished to join her. The Camino is essentially a Christian pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, where St James’ shrine is located and the route from the Pyrenees towards Santiagio winds through the Spanish countryside for several hundred kilometres. It is incredibly popular and attracts thousands of people annually. I thought it was a good opportunity to take my camera and see what I could find as June is  a very good time to see wildlife. Despite the number of visitors to the region, there was not a lot of information I could find regarding the plants and animals found there, so I decided just to wing it!

Initially when I arrived I was surprised by the landscape; not at all like that of southern Spain as it was surprisingly lush and reminded me of Ireland, except much warmer! Its close proximity to the Atlantic was largely the reason for this but thankfully it only rained on the final day and for the first four days it was sunny and warm; perfect for finding insects. On day 1 we walked through rolling hills and wooded lanes and I managed to find a few new species for me, including the Serin, Cirl Bunting and Iberian Marbled White. House Sparrows were seen in almost every stone building we walked by which was a lovely sight. Towards the end of the walk, after about 20km there was an area of flowery meadows which was alive with insects, with swarms of butterflies, bees, moths and flies all feeding avidly on the various wildflowers which were growing in profusion.

The site was great for butterflies in particular, with the Iberian Marbled White, Brown Argus, Clouded Yellow, Small White, Small Skipper and Dark Green Fritillary all in flight. In addition I saw a few new species, including the Mallow Skipper, Marsh Fritillary and Short-tailed Blue, which I saw egg-laying on Clover. Several nice day-flying moths were also around, along with some leaf beetles, although I’m not quite sure of the species! All in all it was a great way to start my trip.

The second part of the Camino led us up into the hills, where the landscape was reminiscent of parts of Donegal, which was rather odd to me. Once again the Iberian Marbled White was rather ubiquitous, along with Meadow Browns and the odd Small Heath. In addition there were several Marbled Fritillaries, which were great to see. These medium-sized butterflies are fast fliers and look rather like the familiar Dark Green Fritillary found at home. Their larvae feed on Bramble, which made sense as there was no shortage of it about! The path led us down from the hills and through some nice wooded margins, where I saw some White Admirals, gliding effortlessly. Other species seen that day included the Pearly Heath, Common Blue, Long-tailed Blue and Small Copper.

The route travelled on the remaining three days became increasingly less remote as we homed in on our destination, with busier roads and more buildings by the day. Still, every so often there would still be a patch of scrub or a flowery meadow which would be worth searching. I saw my first Wood White along this stretch, another species found in the UK and Ireland but prior to the trip had always managed to elude me! Long-tailed and Short-tailed Blues were seen in the scrubby areas, along with Large, Small and Essex Skippers, Pearly Heaths, Iberian Marbled Whites and Meadow Browns. I got some decent shots of the lovely Moss Carder Bee, which was seen shortly before I spotted the unusual Geranium Bronze butterfly, an invader from South Africa. Other species seen were the Brimstone, Clouded Yellow, Peacock, Beautiful Damoiselle, Silver-Washed Fritillary and Grayling.

As I approached the main cathedral in Santiago de Compostela I not only looked forward to finishing the arduous task that I had undertaken, but also reflected on what a good and rewarding trip it had been. Plenty of new species were seen and I hope this has shown that the wildlife in Galicia is just one of the many good things about doing the pilgrimage. Buen Camino!

Two-tailed Pasha, Querenca, Portugal, July 2016

The Algarve: July 2016

July 3, 2018 /

The Algarve is Portugal’s southernmost region and is well known among golfers and sun-worshippers. What it is less well known for is its rich variety of wildlife, particularly in the less touristy areas which are very often located far from the coast or in the hills.

Before I set off I had several places in mind to try for wildlife based on a Cicerone guidebook of the region, which were Fonte de Benemola and the reserve at Feiteira, as well as the area surrounding the house I was staying in outside Tavira. All three are located in the Barrocal, a limestone area between the coast and the mountains, which in general, supports the widest variety of plants and animals.

Our house was located about 6km northwest of Tavira in a hilly area filled with pine, oak, orange, fig and eucalyptus plantations which were surrounded by lavender, gum cystus and sage, hugging the hillsides in thick clumps. By July many of the flowers have gone over for the year, and much of land can appear dry and barren but I must admit I was pleasantly surprised by the wildlife that could be virtually seen from the doorstep. In addition the only plants still in flower were Clustered Carline Thistles, some French Lavender and the odd small Hawkweed, so finding nectaring insects wasn’t difficult. The Southern Gatekeeper was by far the commonest butterfly here and was accompanied by Meadow Browns and Small Heaths fluttering among the strands of grass. In the early morning sun, species such as the Sage, False Mallow and Red-underwing Skippers basked on the hot, stony pathways and fed avidly on the Carline Thistles. They were frequently joined by Common/Southern Blues, Small Coppers and the odd Southern Brown Argus. There were a few Clouded Yellows and Painted Ladies about and I managed to get a sighting of a Swallowtail feeding on the Lantana by the house and a Bath White resting beside the driveway. Whilst walking along the paths and dry riverbeds I frequently disturbed Blue-winged Grasshoppers, which as their name suggests, have distinctive blue wings which they keep hidden away whilst resting. The occasional Dwarf Mantis would walk across the patio by the pool which was always a pleasant sight; maybe not if I was a small grasshopper though! To top off the insects I stumbled across a Striped Hawkmoth, a large southern species which i found hiding in the shade; can’t say I’d blame it.

Bird life in the area was not particularly diverse but sill included many species I’d never seen before, such the Sardinian Warbler, Rufous Bush Robin and the Azure-winged Magpie. We were also visited by a small flock of Reg-legged Partridge, who were foraging just at the bottom of the driveway, which was another lovely sight. All in all not a bad place to be staying in!

The first site I travelled to was Fonte de Benemola, a small spring in the hills outside Loule. With so much of the Algarve being so dry whilst I was there, seeing the running water of the Fonte was almost a strange sight for me but a welcome refuge for many birds, insects and amphibians. The spring lay at the bottom of a v-shaped valley and the hillsides were mostly covered in Maquis, a Mediterranean scrub consisting of a wide variety of small trees and shrubs, such as Strawberry Tree, Oleander, Cork Oak, Mediterranean Buckthorn and Almond. Bramble and some Umbellifers grew along the hedgerows whilst parts of the spring were flanked by giant reeds, which the locals use for basket-making. This site was by far the best for insects on the trip, especially butterflies. Mediterranean Thyme grew prolifically and attracted a whole host of species, especially Small Copper, Common Blue, Brown Argus and the Skippers. Small Whites, Clouded Yellows and one or two Swallowtails were also seen feeding on the thyme.

The site also presented a few new species for me which were seen further along the trail such as the Cleopatra, which was constantly patrolling along the hedgerow. Two Irish species, the Wall Brown and Purple Hairstreak were seen here too and were two more first-timers. The icing on the cake was the sighting of the magnificent Two-tailed Pasha, a huge butterfly by European standards with a very powerful flight. I initially saw it feeding on a pile of dung; a common activity for this species!

As I walked down towards the spring itself there were dozens of Copper Damoiselles; beautiful, dainty dragonflies with distinct dark wings.  I also disturbed a small terrapin by on of the pools, possibly a Spanish Terrapin, which was another nice surprise. As I made my way back towards the entrance, I spotted a large black flying insect which turned out to be a Violet Carpenter Bee; the largest species I’ve seen. All in all it was a very enjoyable walk with plenty of wildlife to see. A must for anyone travelling to the Algarve.

The third location of note was situated deep into the hills and was rather remote. A small hilly valley which surrounded a dry riverbed with abundant Oak trees, it was entitled ‘The Reserve’ and was located in Feiteira. I remember it being a very hot day; over 35 Celsius and being rather hard to find but after a detour lasting about an hour we eventually found it. It was interesting to watch the locals nearby harvesting the cork, which they do by slicing into the thick bark and removing it in deep rings. I must admit I was very glad of the shade provided by the trees, as walking on the hot stony ground in the blazing sun was rather uncomfortable at times.

The shade was also attractive to butterflies it seemed, with several new species for me seen at the reserve. These included the Dusky Heath, Woodland Grayling and the rather impressive Striped Grayling. As I wandered down towards the dry riverbed, there were some clumps of Bramble growing which attracted Common/Southern Blues and Small Coppers, as well as some Honeybees. One new species which I would have been happy not to have gotten close to was the Dark Giant Horsefly, a bumblebee-sized biting fly with a low humming flight which was circling my legs whilst I was trying to photograph butterflies! I didn’t fancy getting bitten so I returned to the trail and continued to follow it as it ascended through the woodland. I found it interesting the the tiny flowers of the Cork Oak were being mobbed by wasps and bees, as they were so small and didn’t carry much scent. I was keen to see if any hairstreaks were basking among the oak leaves and proceeded to shake the branches of several of the smaller trees to try and flush them out, which must have looked rather odd to the local cork harvesters! I managed to glimpse a few but none of them hung around long enough for me to identify them, never mind photograph them. Having said that I was happy with seeing three new species of butterfly as well as a Golden Oriole and a Nightingale, which was fantastic.

Despite the fact that I made the journey during a time when the Algarve was not at its peak, I was chuffed with the wildlife I managed to see, especially the butterflies and birds. I am excited to return someday in the spring, when many of the rare Orchids and beautiful flowers are in bloom and hopefully I get the chance soon. I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone with an interest in the natural world and indeed to anyone who enjoys a bit of travelling.

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