Nerja and Maro are two towns nestled along the Costa del Sol in Andalusia in southern Spain, an area which sees droves of tourists flock their each year, especially in the summer to avail of the abundant sunshine and pristine beaches. One of the lesser-known facets of the region is its wonderfully rich wildlife. The Sierra Nevada near Granada (some 50 km away) is a popular site for ecotourism, but Nerja and its neighbour still receive little attention by comparison. This July I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to explore the area and see what it had to offer.

Andalusia is one of the hottest regions in Europe and come July much of the land (particularly that which is low-lying or near the coast) can look parched and barren. A closer look however can reveal a community of  plants and insects which are well-adapted to survive the intense summer sunshine. In some of the areas of wasteground and scrub outside the towns plants such as Mediterranean Thyme, Sand Viper’s Bugloss and Arabian Pea can be found:

The Mediterranean Thyme in particular is a popular nectar source for the various insects which inhabit the area, especially butterflies. Typical Mediterranean species such as the European Swallowtail, Long-tailed Blue, Southern Blue, Southern Brown Argus, Small Copper and Bath White were all attracted to the profusion of lilac flowers. The Southern Blue and Southern Brown Argus are Iberian counterparts of the Common Blue and Brown Argus respectively, which occur elsewhere in Europe and it was nice to see both again after finding them in southern Portugal a few years ago.   The Geranium Bronze is another butterfly species which can be readily seen in the area, although more often in parks and gardens. It is a non-native species from South Africa which arrived in Europe in the 1980s via imported Geraniums (its larval foodplant) and is now very much a Mediterranean denizen.

In addition to these commoner species, I was treated to a couple of local specialities; the Monarch,  Mediterranean Skipper and Desert Orange Tip. The former is probably the most famous butterfly in the world, due to its large size and annual migration across North America, when thousands of individuals cross en masse from the north to the south of the continent. In Europe however it is somewhat of a rarity and such migrations are not undertaken, as it is a resident in the south of Spain as well as the Canary Islands. It is another relatively recent coloniser, thanks in part due to the widespread planting of its foodplant, Milkweed in parks and gardens throughout the area over the last few decades. The Mediterranean Skipper on the other hand is native, but quite patchy throughout the Mediterranean region. It is a small nondescript species but a very fast flier, so I was lucky to get a few shots of this rarity before it flew off! The Desert Orange Tip is more of a north African species, but it just manages to creep onto the European continent here in southern Spain. It likes very hot, rocky areas and a managed to find an individual near one of Maro’s beaches, a fine male basking in the sun.

Other than butterflies, the area was also home to several different varieties of dragonfly as well as spiders, wasps and shieldbugs. The Violet Dropwing was the standout dragonfly species, with its rich red and violet colouration it was the most spectacular dragonfly I’ve ever seen. The Keeled Skimmer was also present and whilst not as striking as the previous species its rich blue colour makes it an attractive dragonfly in its own right. Striped Shieldbugs were present on some of the Fennel plants growing in the area, whilst the impressive Violet Carpenter Bee (one of Europe’s largest bees) was seen a few times on the Mediterranean Thyme and Yellow Restharrow.

Although they terrify some people, the wasps and spiders of the area are in reality quite harmless as long as they aren’t pestered and are usually much more interested in flowers or catching other insects than they are in people. The most impressive spider in the region (and the largest in Europe) is the Gibraltar Funnel-web Spider. It is a large, black spider which constructs cylindrical webs deep among the dry vegetation. They are not a particularly common species and consequently are protected in Spain. Another spider of interest was the Napoleon Spider. This species is much smaller but thanks to its striking red and black colouration, it can be spotted easily. The wasps I found in the outskirts of Nerja included the Red-horned Sand Digger, the French Paper Wasp and the formidable Beewolf. The latter is a particularly interesting species, as it creates burrows in areas of sandy soil before catching and paralysing honeybees to deposit in the burrows for its larvae, which develop safely within the burrow and feed on the honeybees. Gruesome, but a fascinating life cycle.

As expected, bird activity was quite low. A few Starlings, Spanish Sparrows and Spotted Flycatchers were seen in the vicinity of where I was staying, likely availing of the abundance of insects around! I also managed to find some kind of hawk or falcon patrolling the area close to the Maro Aqueduct, but I didn’t get close enough views to determine an ID. Reptiles were also present (as they often are in Mediterranean climes), in particular lizards. The Large Psammodromus was the most commonly seen lizard, visible almost everywhere on hot rocky surfaces particularly in the morning. A few Moorish Geckos were also present in our postbox of all places! I also managed to find a frog near one of the irrigation channels beside the Avocado groves nearby, as well as a snake beside the Cuevas de Nerja, but unfortunately I wasn’t able to get a good enough look at either to figure out what species they were. All in all however it was a very rich area in wildlife and I would recommend it to anyone with an interest in nature, particularly insects as there were far more species present in addition to those I have mentioned, and this was only during July. I am certain there would be a whole host of other species here during the spring in particular. Someday I hope to go back here in April or May to witness the fine display of spring flowers and butterflies that Andalusia is known for. In the next post I will document some of my hikes into the nearby Sierra de Almijara, which had a few surprises of their own…